I have found that I NEVER remove my trolley, and I also like it a bit lower than most folks, so it doesn't interfere with anything on deck. Consequently, while I could have mounted my anchor trolley using existing fittings on my kayak, and used a method that would allow removal, I didn't. First, I gathered all my supplies. The it had more parts than what is shown here, but these are the pieces that I needed for this particular install. My only additions were the sewing kit, 20 lb. PowerPro braid and some reflective cording - I decided to start at the rear of the kayak. I knew I wouldn't be able to get to the inside of the hull here, so rivets were called for. These black ones blend with the deck loop and also have rubber on them to seal things up, but I added a dab of LEXEL anyway. It isn't shown, but I was VERY CAREFUL to choose a drill bit that was JUST BARELY BIG ENOUGH to make a hole to get the rivet through - Since these rivets sit pretty much flush, I decided to use a deck loop with a flat mounting surface. The countersunk deck loop will be used up forward - Since I had some PowerPro braid and a nut handy, I made my own plumb bob to keep things straight - The rear deck loop, installed - Up front, I knew that I wanted a deck loop inside as well as out, even though Wildy puts some tie down line on the inside of the hatch. Never hurts to ensure you have the right size drill bit - Installed - The deck loop inside acts as a washer as well as an additional tie down point. Of course, I used a dab of LEXEL on these holes as well - Next, it was time to add my pulleys. I chose to take some reflective paracord that I had and pull the core filaments out. This will allow it to stretch a bit, but not as much as a bungee does. It also adds to my safety margin, by being reflective - Slip on a piece of heat shrink and assemble. I used PowerPro braid to sew the ends together. After all, I'm an angler, not a seamstress - Move the heat shrink over it and melt 'er down. This connection is NOT coming apart - I repeated that on both ends and then moved to the actual trolley line and ring. Here it is already sewed up and heat shrinked - I made sure that I ran the line through the ring before making the final connection. This keeps the trolley line from pulling away from the hull in wind or current - Check it all for proper functioning. I actually had the line a bit too loose, and cut my last stiches, pulled the line tighter and restiched it. THEN, I completed the final heatshrink - The finished product - As you can see, I added some STS circles where the pulleys go. This will prevent them from banging. I went with circles instead of rectangles because corners tend to peel and circles don't have corners! Shown with my preferred stake-out pole - The YakAttack PARK-N-Pole, which serves dual duty as a stake-out pole and also allows me to pole my kayak when paddling isn't possible.